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En Indonésie, la jeunesse de banlieue s’approprie la “fashion week” → Accent

En Indonésie, la jeunesse de banlieue s’approprie la “fashion week”


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A Jakarta, les jeunes de banlieue ont rencontré un vif succès sur les réseaux sociaux en créant un défilé de mode sur un passage piéton. Un phénomène qui souligne l’élitisme des fashion weeks traditionnelles et pourrait bien inspirer d’autres pays.

Située au cœur de Jakarta, l’avenue Surdiman ressemble à un centre d’affaires comme les autres avec ses tours de bureaux, ses hôtels internationaux et son indispensable Starbucks. Mais le soir venu, le quartier se métamorphose. Un passage piéton se transforme en podium et les feux de circulation deviennent des projecteurs braqués sur des centaines de jeunes indonésiens dans un défilé de rue unique en son genre.

A la Citayam Fashion Week les jeunes endossent tous les rôles, des mannequins jusqu’aux photographes. Crédit: Dery Ridwansah.

Ce défilé de mode improvisé porte le nom de “Citayam Fashion Week”, en clin d’œil aux grandes semaines de la mode occidentales. Il a été baptisé ainsi car la plupart des jeunes qui y participent viennent du quartier de Citayam, dans la banlieue de Jakarta, et voyagent en train pendant une heure pour rejoindre la capitale.

Un succès international

« Tout a commencé quand cinq adolescents passionnés de mode ont improvisé un défilé sur un passage piéton dans un quartier de Jakarta où ils avaient l’habitude de traîner », nous raconte Kamal, gérant du compte instagram de la Citayam Fashion Week. « Ils ont partagé ça sur leurs réseaux sociaux et c’est devenu viral très rapidement.» La Citayam Fashion Week est notamment devenue célèbre sur le réseau social TikTok, où les adolescents publient régulièrement des vidéos de leurs défilés et des interviews de leurs camarades.

@abdulsofiallail CITAYEM FASHION WEEK 🤘🏻🤘🏻 #fypシ #fyp #fashionweek #citayemfashionweek #FilmTeyvatIslands ♬ оригинальный звук – 贝贝舞蹈工作室

A la Citayam Fashion Week, pas de marques à l’horizon : les jeunes créateurs défilent avec des vêtements bon marché et de contrefaçon, sous les applaudissements de leurs amis se mêlant au bruit des klaxons. « Cette fashion week ne vous réduit pas à votre âge, à votre statut social ou aux vêtements que vous portez », explique Kamal. « Ici, tout le monde est libre de s’exprimer. »

Le succès de cette fashion week improvisée est tel que le gouverneur de Jakarta Anies Baswedan a invité l’ambassadeur de l’Union européenne en Indonésie et le vice-président de la Banque européenne d’investissement à défiler sur le fameux passage piéton en costume-cravate.

De gauche à droite : L’ambassadeur de l’Union européenne en Indonésie Vincent Piket, le gouverneur de Jakarta Anies Baswedan, le vice-président de la Banque européenne d’investissement Kris Peeters et leurs associés. Crédit: @aniesbaswedan

Des semaines de la mode trop sélectives

Si certains de ces jeunes se sont vu proposer des placements de produits et des collaborations avec des marques locales, pour la plupart d’entre eux la gloire est de très courte durée. À la fin de la journée, les adolescents rentrent chez eux en train, leurs efforts n’étant récompensés que par quelques “likes” éphémères sur les réseaux sociaux.

Car derrière ses airs superficiels, la Citayam Fashion Week expose la difficulté qu’éprouvent les jeunes indonésiens de banlieue à accéder au monde sélectif de la haute couture, que ce soit en tant que créateur, mannequin ou simple spectateur.

Il existe bien une semaine de la mode officielle en Indonésie, la Jakarta Fashion Week organisée par le groupe GCM. Considérée comme le plus grand événement de mode en Asie du Sud-Est, elle rassemble les principaux investisseurs et acteurs de l’industrie de la mode. Mais tous les défilés qui s’y déroulent sont uniquement sur invitation et ne sont qu’à l’intention des célébrités, des mondains, des investisseurs et des médias.

Vers une “fashion week” de la banlieue française ?

Le concept de la Citayam Fashion Week est tellement simple que l’on pourrait facilement l’imaginer s’exporter à l’international, et notamment en France, où la Paris Fashion Week est tout aussi sélective qu’à Jakarta, sinon plus.


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Car il est également difficile pour les jeunes de banlieue parisienne de se faire une place dans l’univers cloisonné de la haute couture. Difficile certes, mais pas impossible car certains y parviennent, comme Mossi Traoré. Ce styliste engagé a présenté à deux reprises Mossi, son label éthique de prêt-à-porter féminin, à la Paris Fashion Week.

Mossi Traoré est aujourd’hui une figure de proue de la mode « made in banlieue ». Durant la Paris Fashion Week automne-hiver 2021-2022, il a choisi de présenter sa collection dans la cour d’un immeuble du quartier des Hautes-Noues à Villiers-sur-Marne, où il a grandi.

Le défilé automne-hiver 2021-2022 de Mossi pour la Paris Fashion Week, filmé dans la banlieue de Mossi Traoré, Les Hautes-Noues, dans la ville de Villiers-sur-Marne. Crédit : @Paris_Habitat.

Mossi Traoré préfère voir la banlieue comme une force plutôt qu’une faiblesse. « Quand on vient de banlieue, on a un sens de la débrouillardise que celui qui est né avec une cuillère en argent dans la bouche n’a pas », affirme-t-il. « On apprend très tôt à être débrouillards et ça nous donne une force de caractère. »

En 2015, il crée l’école de haute couture Les Ateliers Alix, en hommage à la couturière Alix Grès. Implantée à Villiers-sur-Marne, il y forme des jeunes de toutes horizons aux techniques de la haute couture. Aujourd’hui, les jeunes de banlieue ont leur place dans la mode mais surtout en tant que consommateurs”, déplore-t-il. “Certains passent par l’ascenseur social, d’autres passent par les escaliers, et je pense que beaucoup de jeunes de banlieue passent par les escaliers.”

Mossi Traoré pense-t-il que la Citayam Fashion Week puisse s’exporter dans les banlieues françaises ? « Tout est possible », nous répond-t-il. « Je trouve géniale cette initiative prise par des jeunes de banlieue en Indonésie parce qu’ils ont des choses à raconter. La mode a connu des mouvements très forts et je pense que si demain les banlieues prennent la parole, les hautes sphères de la mode devront faire avec. »

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Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$type is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/previews/class-zeen-preview-thumbnail.php on line 17

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$post is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 20

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$i is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 21

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$pid is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 22

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$post_format is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 23

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$md is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 24

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$options is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 32

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$specific is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 33

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$counter is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 65

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$type is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/previews/class-zeen-preview-thumbnail.php on line 17

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$post is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 20

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$i is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 21

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$pid is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 22

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$post_format is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 23

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$md is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 24

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$options is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 32

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$specific is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 33

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$counter is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 65

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$type is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/previews/class-zeen-preview-thumbnail.php on line 17

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$post is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 20

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$i is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 21

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$pid is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 22

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$post_format is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 23

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$md is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 24

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$options is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 32

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$specific is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 33

Deprecated: Creation of dynamic property ZeenPreviewThumbnail::$counter is deprecated in /var/www/vhosts/accent.direct/httpdocs/wp-content/themes/zeen/inc/classes/class-zeen-previews.php on line 65
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